By CeCe Sullivan Seattle Times home economist

Rose water, the heady distillation of rose petals and steam, is something of an acquired taste for Western palates. Its scent may hint of secret gardens and distant nations, or perhaps it's the overwhelming fragrance of a department-store perfume counter that comes to mind.

While never a fan of rose water's taste, I admit to a fascination for a flavoring with such a rich history. The ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Romans extracted flavor from rose petals by steeping them in water or oil, and in the ninth century, Persia began the distillation of rose water.

But it's a 10th-century physician named Avicenna who is most often credited with its discovery. "It was in his time that the use of rose water as a flavoring for food came into vogue in the lavish and sumptuous cuisine of the Arabs," writes Alan Davidson in "The Penguin Companion to Food" (Penguin Books, 2002). "It was used to flavor a variety of dishes and even sprayed over the surface of the cooking pot."

What drew me in to the wonders of rose water was a recent article in Gourmet magazine featuring a couple of Brits, Samuel and Samantha Clark, whose London restaurant, Moro, focuses on dishes from Morocco and Spain.

"Oranges and rose water are a traditional combination in Morocco," write the Clarks in their book "Casa Moro" (Ebury Press, 2004) "and sometimes for breakfast we have freshly squeezed orange juice with a few splashes of rose water mixed in."

The pairing sounded exotic and delicious, a concept worth exploring. I began experimenting with a few drops of the water in my own morning glass of orange juice. The flavor was an eye-opener. Fragrant and fresh with just a suggestion of rose, it transformed the simple glass of juice.

Further investigation uncovered a global pantry of ideas. Rose water is used in a variety of Indian curries, Greek pastries and Middle East dishes, including the candy Turkish Delight and a baklava that mixes pistachios with a rosewater-honey syrup. Marzipan, the sweet paste of ground almonds and sugar, was originally flavored with rose water.

The secret to using rose water as a flavoring is to add it in small amounts, then tasting and adjusting the flavor to taste. Pair it with spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg and cardamom, with citrus fruits, peaches, nuts and chocolate. Once opened, rose water should be stored in the refrigerator for freshness.

Rose water can be found at specialty-food stores and well-stocked supermarkets with other flavorings and extracts.